Tis the season for wide temperature swings. Here in Western New York we have been enjoying a comparably warm and dry fall, which has extended our outdoor riding season. As with other areas in the country, it is increasingly common to have 20-30 degree temperature swings day to day or even during a ride. These temperature swings make selecting cycling kit tricky to find the balance between warmth and breathability. One way to simplify the decision making is to invest in cycling kit that accommodates wide temperature ranges. Below, I highlight some select offerings from Ornot, Shimano, and Velocio that I have found handy for a wide range of riding temperatures and conditions.

Ornot

Ornot is smaller clothing company based in San Francisco that offers clothing designed for the constantly changing temperatures in the Bay area. They know first hand what it is like to be caught out on a ride with the wrong cycling kit because the weather is sometimes impossible to predict. They design their clothing with the micro climates of San Francisco in mind, but the result is cycling kit that is useful in a wide range of riding conditions. Their focus may be on coastal “rain fog,” but the result is kit that holds up well in the “wintry mix” of the Great Lakes.

I am a huge fan of Ornot’s Cargo Bib Shorts, Decadent Winter Cap, and Merino Gloves. This time of year, I have those pieces on regular rotation. However, the standout of their clothing line is by far the Micro Climate Jacket. In 30+ years of riding bikes in inclement weather, I have not come across a jacket as versatile as this one. I have been packing it for almost every cycling trip this past year.

The Micro Climate Jacket is a lightweight shell, but unlike my other wind jackets it has far greater breathability. I have been wearing it in a range of conditions as the outer layer when temps dip down in the 20s or when you need some protection from the wind in the 50s and low 60s. Though I wouldn’t characterize it as a rain jacket, it does a descent job of keeping you dry when there is slight precipitation or spray from the road. I also appreciate the ample length in the sleeves with plenty of coverage over the cuffs of gloves. The two-way oversized zipper is also a great feature for modulating your body temperature.

In April, I was riding gravel roads with my masters team in Michigan the day after Barry Roubaix. The temperature was in the low 30s with some single-digit winds. The Micro Climate Jacket was perfect for all-day riding on top of a wool base layer and a long sleeve wool jersey.

Later that same month, I went on a ride down the Pacific Coast Highway south of Long Beach, California. The temperature was in the 60s with coastal winds in the double digits. I made an inland loop around the Newport Beach area. I was sweating quite a bit in the hills in a short sleeve jersey, but as I crested the last hill to dive back down to the coast I was met with those chilly coastal winds. I stopped and put on the Micro Climate Jacket and left it on the rest of the trip back up the windy coast. The jacket compresses down into its own rear pocket, easily fitting into a jersey pocket.

Ornot checks a lot of boxes. They are certified climate neutral. The clothes are made from recycled fibers, merino wool, and deadstock fabric. Many of the pieces are made in the USA. Lastly, their focus on microclimates means that you are getting kit that is adaptive for a range of conditions.

Shimano

There are two new pieces from Shimano that have become staples in my outdoor riding gear rotation this fall. The first is the Evolve Merino All-Season Jersey, and the second is the Evolve Prima Wind Vest. Together, they cover such a range of conditions that I can reach for them as almost a default before checking the weather for the day.

The Evolve Merino long sleeve jersey uses a lightweight synthetic material on the front facing panels to block the wind and merino wool panels in the back facing panels for breathability. The result is a jersey that offers wind chill protection but doesn’t overheat because it breathes and quickly dries through the wool panels. I wear the jersey with a wool base layer on days that are chilly, but not too windy.

For days where the winds are stronger and there is potential for more wind chill, I add the Evolve Prima Wind Vest. The vest features a fleece lining inside the front panels and over the shoulders. The back of the vest is thin breathable material that dries quickly. The collar is nice and high so that you do not have to always wear a neck gaiter on chilly days. The included double zipper is a must for vests to allow for temperature regulation throughout a ride. Despite the loft of the fleece, the vest does fold down into its own pocket for easy storage in a back pocket or bike bag.

Recently, I wore this combination on a gravel group ride. The morning ride started in the low 30s, and there was a lot of scrambling among the group to decide what to wear. We expected the temperature to rise throughout the day into the 40s, but most of the day was in the high 30s. A wool short sleeve base layer with the Shimano Evolve jersey and vest proved once again to be the best choice. The group was large and there was lots of stopping to regroup after climbs and to repair a few flat tires. Our moving time was 3:30 with an elapsed time of 4:26; that is almost an hour standing around. I find those kinds of rides hard to dress for because you are getting chilled standing around, especially if you overdressed and your clothes are wet from sweat. The breathability of the long sleeve jersey combined with using the double zipper on the vest to regular temps throughout the ride proved to be the best possible way to stay warm (but not too warm) on the bike while moving and standing around on the side of the road.

Velocio

The last piece I want to highlight is Velocio’s Alpha Long Sleeve. I layer in this jersey when the temps dip down into the 20s. I typically wear the Ornot Micro Climate Jacket over it or Velocio’s Signature Softshell Jacket if I am expecting “wintry mix.” The Alpha Long Sleeve features an insulating Polartec material on the front-facing panels and merino wool on the rear-facing panels. Same idea here as with the other pieces I’ve mentioned: warmth in the front, breathability in the back.

The Alpha Long Sleeve is a pull over with a quarter zip and a high collar. The pull over is a great idea for the middle layer between your base layer and outer shell because you don’t have overlapping zippers bunching up at the bottom. This long sleeve jersey also includes three rear pockets. The only time I ever use the pockets on a middle layer is for storing a water bottle that I am trying to keep from freezing. But, that is increasingly rare as I now spend more time riding indoors when the temps dip below freezing.

Velocio is another company that values sustainability. They use recycled and natural fibers to produce clothing that is designed for durability to counter the tendency in the clothing and cycling industries to produce disposable and single-use products.

Layering Tips

In summary, I have found the Ornot Micro Climate Jacket to be the most versatile piece of kit in this overview. It is my go to wind shell in temps in the low 30s, and I tuck it into my short sleeve jersey pocket when I’m expecting the temperature and/or wind chill effect to dip into the low 60s or even lower.

In the 50-60 degree temperature range, the Shimano Evolve Merino All-Season Jersey is perfect with a merino wool or Coolmax short sleeve base layer. If the temperature dips into the 40s, then adding the Shimano Evolve Prima Wind Vest is my go to. That combination will work down into the 30s.

If I am facing temps in the 20-30s, then that typically means three layers: wool base layer (typically no sleeves), middle layer like Velocio’s Alpha Long Sleeve, and an outer layer for wind like the Ornot Micro Climate Jacket or for precipitation like Velocio’s Signature Softshell Jacket.

Think Investment

None of these pieces are inexpensive. I am often in conversation with friends who want to extend their outdoor riding beyond warm summer temps. They have sticker shock when they first consider the amount of gear required to ride outside in the cold. My suggestion is always to start slow and pick up gear that extends their riding 10 degrees below what their current gear allows. I encourage them to think about these pieces as investments that they can use for years to come. Think about quality, think about durability, think about layerability, think about temperature range, and think about sustainability.

And if it’s truly cold weather, here’s more depth about winter riding in the 20s and below.

The post Invest in Cycling Kit with Range first appeared on Slowtwitch News.

Wahoo has launched the start of a new line of accessories branded as TRACKR. An updated heart rate monitor is first on their list; the TRACKR HEART RATE monitor replaces the TICKR chest strap HR monitor. However, the optical TICKR Fit Armband HR monitor will continue to be offered for the foreseeable future.

What’s new with the TRACKR HEART RATE Monitor? The two main changes are moving away from a coin battery toward a rechargeable unit and claims of increased accuracy. There’s also changes to the way the strap connects. Below I show comparisons between the new TRACKR HEART RATE (top) and the old TICKR HR monitor (bottom). I’ve been using the new TRACKR HEART RATE the last two weeks.

Although the size of the HR monitoring unit has been reduced with the TRACKR HEART RATE compared to the TICKR, the width and material of the strap remains the same.

The smaller TRACKR HEART RATE unit is more comfortable because you notice it slightly less sitting on your chest.

By removing the need for a coin battery door, the TRACKR HEART RATE unit could be reduced in height top to bottom. However, the unit remains essentially the same in the side width.

The TRACKR HEART RATE unit is recharged with a proprietary magnetic cord. Though I appreciate being able to recharge the unit and moving away from coin batteries, I’m not a fan of having yet another special charging cord that I need to keep track of.

Similar use of snaps to connect the unit to the strap, comparing the new TRACKR HEART RATE and the old TICKR.

The detection area on the straps has increased slightly, which may having something to do with Wahoo’s claims of increased accuracy.

The strap adjustment on the TRACKR HEART RATE has been simplified, which is a welcome change. The double adjustment on the old TICKR always took extra effort to lay flat.

The new TRACKR HEART RATE uses a hook clasp instead of connecting with the snaps on the old TICKR. The TICKR is definitely easier to put on, snapping together at the center of your chest. The new TRACKR HEART RATE requires you to reach around to your side to hook the clasp in the loop. Alternatively you can hook it in the front and then spin the strap into place.

Works As It Should

Over the last two weeks testing the new Wahoo TRACKR HEART RATE, my lasting impression is that it does what it should to the point that I don’t have to think about it. This was also true of the old TICKR.

I had no problems connecting the TRACKR HEART RATE to all my different devices. It’s up to speed with both ANT+ and multi-Bluetooth connectivity. In short, there’s no issues connecting to all the Wahoo and Garmin computers that I have around. Also no problem pairing it to apps on my phone and gaming PC.

The rechargeable battery is supposed to last over 100 hours of use. I charged it once and haven’t needed to recharge it since I’ve been using the unit. I’m all about moving away from coin batteries, but lost is the convenience of instantly reviving a dead unit with a battery swap. The initial charge time was reasonable, though. I’m gradually developing better pre-ride recharging rituals as more and more components on my bike require batteries.

Accuracy

Wahoo claims the new TRACKR HEART RATE is more accurate with an improved algorithm. I asked for more details, but the Wahoo representatives were reluctant to share evidence that supports their claim. I’m not too worried about that, but I’m always working on my cardiologist to trust my HR data that I’m capturing. I’ve pretty much won him over and can show him my SVT episodes when they happen, but it would be nice if Wahoo could do that work for me by making their accuracy details available.

Do You Need It?

If you are in the market for a new HR monitor, take a closer look at the Wahoo TRACKR HEART RATE for its increased connectivity (up to 3 Bluetooth devices at once) and rechargeability (moving away from coin batteries). Other than those two main selling points, I don’t see a need to run out and buy the new TRACKR HEART RATE if your current strap is doing everything you want it to do. MSRP is $89.99.

The post Tested: Wahoo TRACKR HEART RATE Monitor first appeared on Slowtwitch News.

Meet Johnny and Colleen Vanderwell. The Southern California-based couple is passionate about introducing cycling enthusiasts to the benefits of using a wax-based chain lube. They aren’t necessarily setting out to compete with the wax lube you may already be using. Rather, they are on a mission to educate people and potentially convert them to chain maintenance with a wax lube.

Weary of the time-intensity of stripping and hot waxing chains, Johnny started experimenting with using wet wax chain lubes around two years ago. He had created his own hot wax mix with paraffin and Teflon and decided to make his own wet wax lube. In consultation with a chemist, Johnny has created over 200 test batches in his garage before arriving at the formula for FAAST.

As with all lubes, the goal is to get the lube “inside” the chain and not just on the surface of the plates. Ideally, the lube works its way into the rollers to help reduce friction. Too thick and the wax lube will remain on the surface of the chain. Too thin and the wax lube will drip off the chain without leaving enough wax behind inside the chain.

The Vanderwells combined Johnny’s experience as a bike mechanic and a garage chemist with Colleen’s background in operations working for non-profit organizations. The result of their combined efforts is the launch of the FAAST chain lube last fall and a steadfast commitment to grow their brand by educating cyclists about keeping their bikes clean and free of avoidable friction. FAAST connotes movement and helps share their message to “Keep Going” on and off the bike.

Testing

Johnny sent me a bottle of the first iteration of FAAST that they brought to market. To give it full consideration, I completely stripped a new chain of the manufacturers lubricant and applied the FAAST wax lube, one drop on each roller. After letting the chain dry, I did a short ride but wasn’t satisfied that I had enough wax lube on the chain because it was still squeaking a bit. After the second application and letting it dry, I had a silent and clean chain. However, I did find that I had to reapply wax lube every other ride.

Johnny was hearing similar anecdotes from his local riding community that uses FAAST wax lube. That initial batch was a bit too thin and wasn’t leaving enough wax behind. So, back to the chemistry lab in his garage, Johnny produced a slightly thicker formula. I’ve been using the thicker formula now for a couple weeks and find that I don’t have to reapply as often. More wax is in fact staying in the chain compared to the first iteration they brought to market.

Not all my bikes have waxed chains. I’m very much in alignment with Johnny’s thinking that wax lubes (and hot waxed chains) are better suited for dry conditions. Wax chains pick up less debris – they don’t produce the friction paste that petroleum-based lubes tend to do, especially if over applied. Any dry dirt collected by waxed chains tends to clump up and drop off, leaving you with a very clean looking and quiet chain.

However, waxed chains are not ideal in wet conditions. Your chain will rust if not dried off after a ride in the rain. Johnny suggests that wax lubes aren’t for you if you are planning to ride regularly in the rain. However, if you are only being caught in the rain occasionally, Johnny suggests that wax lube is viable but may need reapplied more often – even during the ride. FAAST will soon be available in 1 oz. bottles for this very purpose.

Following this line of thinking, I tend to use hot wax or drip wax lube only on my fair-weather bikes, namely my steel glam commuter, my indoor track bike, and the bike I have semi-permanently parked on the indoor trainer. For the rest of my road, gravel, cyclocross, and mountain bikes I use a petroleum-based wet lube.

Available Now

If you are in the wax curious category, FAAST is a great place to start. You are getting a tested product from the Vanderwells, who want to help you learn how to use wax lube not only to have a cleaner and more efficient chain but also to prevent unnecessary wear and tear on your bike’s expensive drive train.

You can purchase a 4 oz. bottle of FAAST wax lube for $18 on their website, as a single purchase or as a subscription with two-, four-, and six-month options. You can also purchase their wax lube on Amazon, if you need to replenish FAAST in two days with a Prime membership.

What’s Next?

I asked Johnny and Colleen what was next for FAAST Products. For now, they said their mission is education and helping more people learn to use wax lubricant appropriately on their bicycles. They suggested that most people who aren’t using wax don’t know that it may be a viable option for them.

Johnny shared that although it’s ideal to strip your chain before using FAAST wax lube, it’s not necessary. His testing has revealed that with regular application, the wax lube will replace the manufacturer’s lubricant on new chains over time.

The Vanderwells also shared that they are looking to partner with grassroots events and cycling enthusiasts who share a passion for educating people about bike maintenance and care.

There are so many squeaky chains out there that simply are not FAAST.

The post Introducing FAAST Wax Lube first appeared on Slowtwitch News.

A couple of guys on our master’s racing team threw out the idea of taking a bike packing trip from Buffalo to New York City along the Empire State Trail. The total mileage for the route is around 570 miles. We blocked out a week in August to ride the route one way and take an Amtrak train back on the last day.

We are total bikepacking newbies, and this will be “credit card bike touring” for this first trip. We plan on paying for accommodations and food along the way. We’ll save a self-supported trip for another time, if this trip goes well.

We all have gravel race bikes that aren’t designed for bolting on racks and accessories for bikepacking. My TIME ADHX 45 is arguably a pure race bike with only top tube bosses for attaching a top tube bag. That puts us in the position of looking for soft bags to strap to our bikes.

UK-based Tailfin caught my attention because in addition to strap-on frame bags, they offer a rack system that can be used on thru axle and quick release bikes that don’t have touring bosses in the frame. I reached out to Tailfin about our trip, and they kindly sent a full setup for review. Here, I’ll offer my first impressions. After our trip, I’ll follow up with a more in-depth review.

Thru Axle Selection

The most complicated step of working with the Tailfin rack system is selecting the thru axle that is compatible with your bike, and even this isn’t that big of a deal. Tailfin’s website includes extensive guides and videos for all of their bikepacking gear, and the axel guide walks you through all of the information you need to gather about your frame. For thru axel, the length of the axel, the thread pitch, and the shape of the interface are the key details to consider. My TIME frame wasn’t listed on their website, but the thru axel details were easy to find on TIME’s website. For quick release, there’s nothing to worry about because the skewer they offer can be used for both 130mm and 135mm rear dropouts.

The Tailfin axels have attachments for the rack on the ends, giving the rack a fixed and stable contact point that doesn’t involve the bike’s frame.

Tailfin also offers frame mounting options if your bike frame can accommodate them.

Rack and Bag Selection

The racks come in carbon and aluminum and with and without pannier mounts. I wasn’t sure how much gear I would be carrying on this trip, so I opted for the carbon rack with the pannier mounts. I also decided that I wanted the removeable top bag instead of the lighter one that is integrated into the rack. And, I decided on the ultra-durable pannier bags instead of the super light version.

I wanted to run a frame bag, but I also wanted to fit two large water bottles. One of the few upsides to being tall and requiring an XL frameset is having more room in the main triangle of the frame. The frame bags come in three wedge-shaped sizes ranging from 1.9 to 3.5 liters, as well as six half-frame sizes ranging from 2.3 to 6.5 liters. The 4.5L half-frame bag appeared to be the best size for my intended use.

The top tube bags come in a zip and a flip option. I have a few other zip top tube bags on hand, so I decided to select the flip option for ease of access while riding.

Super Easy Setup

The rack assembly and pannier setup were easy to complete. Tailfin’s website includes instructional videos that I followed to make sure the clamps were facing the correct direction on the rack, top bag, and the pannier bags. The half-frame bag didn’t require any special instructions. The top tube bag has an option to strap or bolt on the frame, so the only work there was lining up which holes to use for the bolts.

I am impressed how easily the rack attaches and releases from the frame, as well as how easily the pannier bags and the top bag are added and removed. After the initial setup is complete, the whole system of bags take less than 10 minutes to put on the frame and less than that to remove.

Key Features

The material of the bags seems very durable, and they are designed to be waterproof. The panniers and top bag have large roll-top openings that make packing and access easy. After packing, the top gets rolled and strapped down to the sides.

There is an air valve on the side that allows compression, letting the air out and then closing the valve to retain a semi-vacuum seal. The shape of the compressed bag is maintained by the straps. Each bag has additional internal storage features, such as zippered pockets.

The half-frame bag has an internal carbon reinforcement struts that makes using the durable zippers easy but also prevents the bag from bulging out to the sides to the point that your knees would rub. The bag has a partition for smaller items on one side and bulkier items on the other. There is also a port in the front that allows for charging cables or a bladder hose to pass through. My favorite feature of the half-frame bag is the Velcro straps at the top meant to hold a pump.

I wasn’t sure I was going to like the flip cover option on the top tube bag, but I’ve come to really like it for ease of use. The opening is much larger than the zippered top tube bags I have on hand, making access quicker and easier while keeping your eyes on the road.

No Noise

I’ve only ridden the full setup around the neighborhood so far. However, I’m struck by how quiet the whole setup is. The points of attachment on the rack have rubber gaskets that eliminate any rattle when hitting bumps or going over rough surfaces.

I had the bags packed with dog towels to give them shape for this initial review. So, nothing was rattling around inside the bags either.

Not Cheap

This whole setup is a certainly a hefty investment. Tailfin has put a great deal of time and energy into testing and getting the smallest details correct. This is evidenced by the multiple iterations the bags have been through and the number of options available for each type of bag, including those that I’m not featuring here.

Here’s the damage if you are paying full retail:

$465 Carbon Rack w/ Pannier Option
$210 AP Rack Top Bag
$330 2x Ultra Durable Pannier Bag
$145 Half-Frame Bag 4.5L
$75 Top Tube Flip Bag 1.1L

Though it adds up, I’d argue that it’s worth keeping in mind that this setup allows you to convert a racing bike with no bikepacking features to a full-on touring rig, eliminating the need for buying a different bike for that purpose. Tailfin also offers a 5-year full warranty and a 30% off crash replacement policy.

More to Come

We have an overnight shake out ride planned in July before our weeklong trip in August. I’ll be dialing in this bikepacking setup and determining the best ways to pack and distribute shared gear among the three of us. One consideration I’ll be making is whether or not I need to run the pannier bags for the longer trip. I’ll follow up with a more extensive review based on those trips.

The post First Impressions: Tailfin Bikepacking Gear first appeared on Slowtwitch News.

What are the Virginia Tech Helmet Ratings? And why should you care as a helmet consumer? The short answer is the reduction of concussion risk. Since 2011, Virginia Tech has been testing helmets in sport-specific conditions. Some helmet manufacturers are using these test results to drive innovations in helmet design and materials. I met with Dr. Barry Miller to learn more about how cycling helmets earn the STAR ratings they do and to ask if innovations like MIPS make a difference in the test results. Below are the major take aways from our conversation.

Helmet Testing

By law, all bicycle helmets sold in the US must be certified by the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC). If you look inside your helmet, you will find a sticker (if it hasn’t become detached with use) that attests to this certification. The CPSC testing is pass/fail and involves four tests, one of which is a drop test. The pass/fail threshold for the drop test is the point of skull fracture. As helmet consumers, all we know from the CPSC certification is that our helmet passed the minimum standard to be sold to us in the US and will hopefully prevent a skull fracture. However, we don’t know from the CPSC certification the extent to which any particular helmet reduces concussion risk.

That’s where the Virginia Tech Lab comes in with much more involved and rigorous helmet testing. For each sport addressed by the lab, Barry’s colleagues developed a specific test protocol based on field observations. For football, the field testing involved collecting data from sensors within the helmet during practices and games. For cycling, the field testing involved simulation studies of bicycle accidents.

The helmet testing protocol and evaluation system that the lab developed for cycling is detailed in an open access, peer-reviewed journal article (Bland, et al., 2020), but here are the highlights:

Helmets are tested on a custom drop tower that involves dropping a helmeted headform on to a 45-degree steel anvil covered in sand paper. The angle of impact was determined from simulation studies, and the 80 grit sand paper simulates road friction. The helmet is dropped on six locations on the helmets at two velocities to simulate low-speed and high-speed impacts. The low-speed impact is the most common in cycling, while the high-speed impact is meant to represent the types of impacts that most commonly result in concussions.

In short, for a helmet to do well in the Virginia Tech lab, it must be dense enough to pass the high energy CPSC impact test to prevent skull fractures and compliant enough to reduce concussion risk based on linear and rotational forces that are measured at two velocities.

This data then gets weighted based on frequency in real-world impact scenarios and run through a formula detailed in the article that takes into consideration concussion injury risk. The result of the calculation is the Summation of Tests for the Analysis of Risk (STAR) score. While the calculation of the data is hard to follow, the STAR score is easy to understand. The lower the STAR score, the lower the concussion risk when wearing the helmet while cycling.

What’s my helmet rated?

Your helmet may or may not be currently included in the Virginia Tech bicycle helmet ratings. Barry said that helmets come to the lab in a variety of ways. Manufacturers will send their prototypes and commercially available helmets to the lab for testing. Some of these manufacturers, like LAZER for example, will report the STAR ratings for their helmets as a selling point. The lab will also occasionally buy helmets on the open market if there is high demand for a particular helmet from consumers or if a helmet is featured by other helmet testers, such as Consumer Reports. The lab attempts to test a variety of brands, design technologies, and price points.

If your helmet is listed in the ratings, take note of the STAR score in the low impact energy compared to the high impact. Again, the lower the score the lower the risk of a concussion when wearing that helmet properly.

The Price of Safety

If we believe all the marketing hype, we might assume that a more expensive helmet might be safer. But, that’s not necessarily the case based on the sample of helmets tested by the Virginia Tech Helmet Lab within the road category.

Of the top 30 road helmets (ranked overall 1 through 65), the STAR scores ranged from 8.40 to 11.28 (all five stars). Fourteen are $250 and above, thirteen are between $100 and $250, and three are less than $100. Of particular note, the Giant Rev Comp MIPS has a STAR score of 9.13 and a cost of $65.

Barry shared that the reason for why a helmet does better than another in the testing is varied and heavily based on the design of the helmet. He said that the materials themselves are relatively inexpensive so that a $65 helmet from Giant with a generous amount of EPS foam can outperform a more expensive helmet with a different design.

What about MIPS?

I asked Barry about the significance of MIPS for reducing concussion risk. Sixteen of the top 30 road helmets in their ratings have MIPS installed.

Barry shared that MIPS helps the helmet decouple from the head upon impact. Ideally, the helmet will be in the correct position on your head during a crash, but the helmet will also shift a bit on impact absorbing some of the energy that your head experiences. MIPS performs well in the STAR ratings, in part because the headform used in the tests does not have hair. MIPS acts as a slip plane between the head and the helmet facilitating the decoupling upon impact.

However, Barry said that MIPS won’t help in all crash situations. In particular, MIPS is not going to help absorb linear impacts. But in the case of severe oblique impacts, MIPS may enhance how the helmet decouples. The big question for Barry is whether MIPS helps when you have a full head of hair. He said it greatly depends on the location, the angle, and the amount of energy of the impact, with most of the protection coming from the density and thickness of the helmet.

In sum, MIPS may help the helmet decouple in certain situations, but the presence of MIPS is only one factor among many that determine the amount of risk of concussion.

Helmets continue to improve

The good news is that helmets keep getting better. Barry is excited about the potential of new helmet design technologies like WaveCel, Omni-Directional Suspension, honeycomb structures like HexaGo and KAV, and Koroyd.

Barry said that as the helmets continue to improve, the Virginia Tech Helmet Lab will need to adjust their thresholds for their STAR ratings. Currently, a five-star helmet has a STAR score under 14. Barry foresees a time when they will need to reduce the five-star rating to a STAR score of 10. Currently, only nine road helmets rated by the lab have a STAR score under 10.

Large volume hair

I asked Barry if there were any promising helmet designs that accommodate large volume hair. There are very few helmets on the market that do so effectively, and my colleagues and I, who work with Black and Brown youth in Dr. Noemi Waight's STEMCyclists program at the University at Buffalo (SUNY), are always on the lookout for viable helmet designs. Barry shared that there are some viable designs used in other sports that could be used in cycling. One example is a helmet with an adjustable shell used in hockey that could be used to better accommodate large volume hair. He shared that a student group from Northwestern University was visiting the lab working on helmet designs for large volume hair that will hopefully test well in the lab. However, Barry cited market demand as the largest obstacle to incentivize manufacturers to bring viable designs for large volume hair to diverse consumers. Safety and reducing concussion risk are yet more reasons to advocate for diverse participation and representation in cycling.

Exposure to Risk

The more risk of concussion that you are exposed to, the more these helmet ratings may matter to you. In competition, a criterium racer is arguably exposed to more concussion risk than a triathlete. But in training on open roads in car traffic, those concussion risks may be more similar. A bike commuter may be exposed to even greater risk than both of those athletes and want a larger, more protective helmet. The Virginia Tech Helmet Testing Lab recommends any of their five or four star helmets. However, when you are weighing cost versus benefit at the point of helmet sale, you may want to take into consideration the STAR score if it’s available for the helmets you are considering. And if the helmet isn’t listed, don’t hesitate to contact the lab and suggest that the helmet be added to their testing cue.

The post Breaking Down Virginia Tech’s Helmet Ratings first appeared on Slowtwitch News.

When first considering Challenge tires, the most important characteristic to know is the difference between their handmade and vulcanized tires. There are tradeoffs between the two.

Challenge’s handmade tires use high TPI (e.g., 260) casing materials and natural rubber that give the tire soft and supple characteristics. These tires feel better than the vulcanized tires because the suppleness conforms more easily to the terrain. However, the trade-off is that the natural rubber of the tread is stickier and wears faster than vulcanized rubber. The supple sidewalls are also arguably more susceptible to sidewall cuts than the more durable vulcanized alternatives.

Challenge’s vulcanized tires use lower TPI (e.g., 120) nylon casings impregnated with butyl rubber which makes them stiffer and arguably less comfortable than the handmade tires. Vulcanized tires come in the typical U shape that most consumers are accustomed to, as opposed to the handmade tires that are made flat. While the stiffness of a vulcanized tire may not perform and feel as well as their handmade tires, the tradeoff is a more durable tire with longer tread life and less susceptibility to sidewall cuts.

This characterization of the differences between Challenge’s handmade and vulcanized offerings is a bit over-simplified as there are additional design features to consider, but this characterization provides a general orientation to the differences.

Pet Peeve

Before gravel became GRAVEL, we rode many of the same gravel roads on our road or cyclocross bikes. As gravel evolved into its own riding and racing discipline, the tires began to trend larger and the pressures began to trend lower. For a good stretch of time, many of us were running 30 to 35 mm tires on our cyclocross bikes because that was the maximum tire size those frames could fit. Though many of us were running handmade tubulars for cyclocross racing, we sought out tubeless wheelsets and tires for gravel riding and racing because the tires could be repaired roadside.

Those early 30-40 mm tubeless gravel tires came vulcanized and rode ok across smooth dirt and chunky gravel roads. However, in any circumstances that you needed to ride in off-camber terrain and use the edge of the tire, they were largely worthless and left you sliding out. For lack of a better term, these early gravel tires were boxy and had little to no suppleness that would allow the tire to perform well on its edges. At the time, the tradeoff was durability at the cost of suppleness. Less flats but the tires felt like you were riding on a garden hose.

As a result, there was a pretty hard distinction between tires that were durable and good for level gravel roads compared to tires that were more fragile and good for mixed terrain including off-camber sections. At races like Paris to Ancaster in Ontario, Canada, which features pavement, gravel, bike path, singletrack, and cyclocross sectors in farm fields, tire choices were made across these hard distinctions of durability vs. performance in mixed terrain.

From those years, I’ve had a pet peeve with “gravel” tires that are largely worthless as soon as you get them off road or in mixed terrain.

Immediately Curious

As a long-time user of Challenge tubulars for cyclocross, I had all kinds of questions about Challenge’s handmade tubeless offerings for gravel. How would they make a handmade casing that would be sealed for tubeless? How would this handmade casing improve road feel and off-camber compliance? How durable would the sidewalls be of these handmade casings?

To answer my questions, I put a pair of 40mm Challenge Getaways Handmade Tubeless (HTLR) to the test. To date, I have 175 miles on them riding on pavement, gravel, and mixed terrain. Our gravel in Western New York is a mixture of dirt hardpack and medium chunky gravel that gets spread in the spring to remediate rural dirt roads. By mixed terrain, I’m referring to the labyrinth of bandit ATV trails and abandoned rail lines in our post-industrial playground of Buffalo, NY.

Mounting

The Challenge HTLR tires take some care when mounting. First, they fit tight; really tight on some rims. Keep in mind that the casings are handmade and meant to be supple. As a result there is a risk that if you horse these tires and force them on the rim, you could stretch the bead and damage the shape of the tire. I have heard of this happening in at least one case. In another case, I heard of someone who gave up on mounting these tires, deciding they were incompatible with the rims they were using.

My theory is that these issues in mounting were due to improper technique. Historically, I think many of us are used to starting at the valve and working our way around to the other side of the rim to mount the tire. In the case of these Challenge HTLRs (and most tubeless tires), you will want to do the opposite. Start mounting the tire at the opposite end from the valve and work your way toward the valve. The key is to decrease the circumference of the rim that you are mounting the tire on. You accomplish this by making sure the bead is sitting in the lowest recess of the rim bed as you work your way around. Starting at the valve only increases the circumference because the tubeless valve doesn’t allow the tire bead to sit down in the lowest recess of the rim bed.

Challenge offers a tool for mounting their clincher and tubeless tires, but I didn’t need the tool and was able to mount the Getaway HTLRs on a set of Shimano RX880 hooked carbon wheels that have an internal width of 25mm. I used a wide Pedros tire lever to pop the last part of the bead over the rim by the valve. I then removed the valve core and seated the tire with an air compressor.

I decided to try Challenge’s tire sealant that I injected through the valve stem. Challenge recommends using their own sealant, of course. However, I haven’t heard of any reason why you couldn’t use a different sealant. I’m not aware of any adverse interactions between other sealants and Challenge’s handmade casings.

Ride Feel

For tire pressure, I used the Silca tire pressure calculator minus 1-2 psi. There’s nothing particularly authoritative about Silca’s tire pressure calculator in my view, in fact I find it runs a bit high for my riding preferences. However, I cite it here as a shared metric to contextualize my review for your own weight and terrain. For comparison, I’ve been running a few other 40mm vulcanized gravel tires at the same pressure.

In short, Challenge’s HTLR tires feel like a tire should feel like. I really value being able to use the whole tire, especially on mixed terrain without worry that the tire will “tip over” when put on its edges and not conform to any surface that isn’t level.

The Getaway HTLRs feel good and compliant when blasting over chunky gravel, no issues there. But where I find they really shine is when you find yourself riding out a rut and coming in contact with the sides of that rut. You never want to fight a rut. They are best riding out, unless you can hop your way out. In Western New York, I find myself in ruts often at high speeds caused by either ATV tires or water run off downhill. With the vulcanized gravel tires I’ve run, these ruts don’t leave much margin for error because you can quickly lose traction at the edges. However, with the more supple sidewalls of the Challenge Getaway HTLRs I can be more playful within those ruts and expect that the tire will conform to the sides of the rut. Get too cocky though, and those ruts will for sure put you on your butt. Gotta respect the ruts.

In my experience, with that suppleness of the HTLRs comes confidence. I can have confidence in the tire that it won’t slip out immediately if I put it on its edges. However, the Getaway is no cyclocross tire. The side knobs are not aggressive enough to hook really loose or muddy terrain. Therefore, it’s good to keep in mind that the Getaway is a gravel tire first and foremost.

Depending on the weather, the Getaway is going to be my tire of choice for Paris to Ancaster this year. It does everything a gravel tire should and more, and I believe that if not too muddy it can handle the cyclocross sectors of that race course.

Durability

As I said before, there are trade-offs with the suppleness of the HTLR casing. Though the tire gave me confidence in the ride feel, I did have some hesitation when it came to the durability of the sidewalls. The natural rubber material is more susceptible to sidewall cuts compared to a vulcanized tire.

For this review, though, I decided to throw caution to the wind and test the tires out on the gnarliest gravel we have in Western New York. We have long stretches of abandoned and unused railroad bed, some of which is now slowly (very slowly due to funding and property negotiations) being resurfaced for multi-use recreation. The untouched railroad beds are surfaced with railroad ballast, which is large, chunky, and often sharp. Outside of the context of this review, I would never consider taking carbon rims and a handmade tire on these stretches. But for the sake of testing, I let it rip full gas on a few of these sectors of railroad ballast. The picture below is my son riding on one of the less aggressive ballast sectors.

Expecting the worst, I was surprised to only experience the most minor of sidewall gashes. Keep in mind that most people riding and racing in the context of gravel are not going to be riding on railroad ballast, so this was a bit of an extreme and unfair test for the tires.

That being said, Challenge recently released the XP version of the Getaway. XP refers to Xtra Protection in the sidewalls. The XP tires add a special layer of tightly woven material (Corazzaarmor Silver and Gold) that reinforces it for more aggressive conditions. This model promises to be less permeable to sidewall cuts compared to the standard handmade Getaway. This may be the option you will want to seek out if you are riding in conditions akin to railroad ballast. The question is how much the extra material will change the suppleness of the tire. My guess is that it will still feel better than a vulcanized tire.

Challenge Tire Gravel Line Up

Challenge offers five tire treads of varying widths and materials in their gravel line. Here’s a quick round up of those offerings and where the Getaway HTLR falls in that line up in order from least to most aggressive. However, not every variation is available across these characteristics.

Tire: STRADA BIANCA
Tread: Herring bone pattern
Material: Natural Rubber/Handmade, Vulcanized, or Silk
Type: Clincher, Tubeless, Tubeless Tubular
Sidewall Color: Tan, Black
Sizes: 30, 33, 36, 40mm (also 650 x 46mm)

Tire: ALMANZO
Tread: Diamond pattern with Grifo-inspired side knobs
Material: Natural Rubber/Handmade
Type: Clincher, Tubeless, Tubular, Tubeless Tubular
Sidewall Color: Tan
Size: 33mm

Tire: GRAVEL GRINDER
Tread: Diamond pattern with Limus-inspired side knobs
Material: Natural Rubber/Handmade or Vulcanized
Type: Clincher, Tubeless, Tubular, Tubeless Tubular
Sidewall Color: Tan or Black
Sizes: 33, 36, 38, or 42mm

Tire: GETAWAY
Tread: Low profile tread with medium side knobs
Material: Natural Rubber/Handmade
Type: Clincher, Tubeless, or Tubeless Tubular
Sidewall Color: Tan or Black
Sizes: 36, 40, or 45mm
XP (Xtra Protection) Option in 40 and 45mm Black

Tire: GRAVINE
Tread: Higher profile tread with higher side knobs
Material: Natural Rubber/Handmade
Type: Tubeless
Sidewall Color: Tan or Black
Sizes: 40 or 45mm
XP (Xtra Protection) Option in 40 and 45mm Black

Options

Hopefully, this review gives you some insight into the range of offerings from Challenge. There are many more variations to consider compared to other tire companies. Here is my suggestion for the order in which you may want to consider these many options.

First, consider what type of tire you want to run on your gravel bike. For most people that will be a choice between Clincher and Tubeless.

Second, consider what tread will be best for the terrain you plan on riding. I suggest the Getaway for most gravel riding and the Gravine if you need something more aggressive.

Third, consider size. Bigger seems to be better, so you may want to go as big as your frame will allow. I’ve been slow to adapt to this trend and find that 40mm is the sweet spot for me right now, even though my frame can accommodate 45mm tires.

Fourth, consider the material tradeoffs between Handmade and Vulcanized. For friends who are closely attuned to the feel of their tires, I suggest the natural rubber of handmade. For friends who don’t want to think about their tires much at all and just want them to stay inflated, I suggest vulcanized. Consider the XP options in the Getaway and Gravine tires if you are worried about sidewall durability.

Lastly, consider sidewall color. This is a very personal decision. I am and always will be a black sidewall kind of guy. If you see me with tan sidewalls, it wasn’t by choice. For some people this decision very may well be their first criteria. I ride with a few tan sidewall hardliners who are willing to sacrifice performance for aesthetics.

In conclusion, keep an eye on Challenge as they offer more variations within their gravel tire lineup. They are quick to pivot to meet market demands and rider preferences.

Challenge tires can be purchased through the Slowtwitch retail shop.

The post Challenge Getaway HTLR Tire Review first appeared on Slowtwitch News.

Wahoo has partnered with ROAD iD to offer a free special edition, customizable wrist band that displays your emergency contact information. Now through May 14th, you will receive a ROAD iD coupon with the purchase of an ELEMNT ROAM or BOLT computer. You will only need to pay for the shipping on the WAHOO iD wrist band ($6.99).

Two iD Options

ROAD iD offers two tiers for their identification wearables.

The first tier is the wearable iD only that displays emergency contact information. The wrist is a good location for first responders to discover your information that you have engraved on the ROAD iD. Example information that you may add to your ROAD iD includes phone numbers for your family or close friends and any essential information about allergies or medical conditions for first responders.

The second tier adds an online profile where you can store additional information in the event that you cannot communicate these details to those attending to you. Not limited to the character limits on the wearable, you can store and update emergency contacts, medical history, allergies, contact information for doctors, insurance details, medications, etc. You can also upload documents that would be helpful in the event of an emergency. The online profile is $19.99/year with a free introductory period of six months. This online profile can include multiple iDs for your entire family at no additional cost.

First responders access your online profile using the website or phone number on the front and a serial number and a pin on the back of the iD.

Other Locations

If you like the idea of ROAD iD for wearable identification but you don’t like the idea of an additional wrist band, there are other options available for purchase from ROAD iD including for your watch, ankle, shoe, or neck.

I’m not a trained first responder, but my guess is that the iD on the wrist or a dog tag around the neck may be more easily discovered than on your shoe. However, any identification is better than none.

Peace of Mind

A grim topic for sure. No one wants to think about an accident while exercising that leaves you unable to communicate with first responders. However, wearing your vital information, especially any pre-existing medical conditions, may expedite first responders attending to your medical needs. Also, as you head out the door for your next ride or run, you will put your loved ones’ minds at ease knowing that you are wearing identification.

If you are in the market for a new Wahoo bike computer, why not also take advantage of this free Wahoo iD offer? It may even help justify the expense to the other person on your bank account.

The post Free ROAD iD with Wahoo ROAM or BOLT first appeared on Slowtwitch News.

I was watching the Gent–Wevelgem race this morning while riding the indoor trainer. Without spoiling the ending if you haven’t seen it, Mathieu van der Poel spent most of the day at the sharp end of the race wearing a Canyon branded ABUS Gamechanger.

While scanning the shrinking peloton, it struck me how similar all of the aero road helmets are looking these days. The ABUS Gamechanger 2.0, LAZER Vento, Trek Ballista, Kask Utopia Y, Smith Ignite, and the Limar Air Atlas (among others) are all looking almost indiscernible from each other, especially when white in color. They all have similar aero shells, vent placements, and aero tails on the back. It’s almost as if they are all converging on shared aerodynamic design aspects, which makes sense when wind tunnel performance provides the metrics that carry the day.

So, what makes the ABUS Gamechanger 2.0 stand out in this crowded market? I’ve had one on hand since earlier this winter. While I haven’t had an opportunity to wear it on a ride, I’ll highlight some of the features that I appreciate about this helmet.

Narrow Width

Having nothing to do with safety or performance, I do prefer a helmet that isn’t too wide on my head, which is 59 cm. This ABUS Gamechanger 2.0 is a size large (57-61cm), but it appears as if it is a medium on my head. I can squeeze into other brands that max out their medium in 59cm, but that doesn’t leave much room for me to let my hair grow too long. So, it’s nice that this large ABUS is roomy enough to fit a winter hat but appears to be a medium. When I go to large in other brands it looks way too wide.

The helmet has sunglass docks in the front and the back. The front dock can accommodate both narrow and wide sunglasses. The rear dock is wider and may only fit newer wide sunglasses. I recommend taking your sunglasses with you when trying on the helmet for size.

Stitched Straps

In general, I’m not a fan of stitched straps because the helmet loses adjustability for the sake of saving a few grams. In my view, those few saved grams are more for marketing and don’t have much significance on the bike. I never notice if a helmet is 10-20 grams heavier or lighter. Without adjustability, stitched straps are a gamble. They either fit exactly like they should or they are off just a bit to be annoying.

These stitched straps on the ABUS Gamechanger 2.0 are perfect for me. I lucked out that they fit exactly to where I would adjust them. However, I can’t promise this will be the case for everyone. I always recommend that if you are considering a helmet with stitched straps that you try one on first.

Magnetic Buckle

ABUS is a German company that specializes in security and protection (i.e., locks), but they also have a helmet division for bikes, motos, and equestrian. So, you can say they are in the security business, securing your property and possessions, as well as your noggin. The helmet buckle is unlike any other helmet I’ve come across.

The buckle snaps together magnetically to close and slides apart to open. It does take a little getting used to, but you’ll quickly retrain your brain that you are protecting to slide the buckle apart rather than pull it apart.

Mips Air Node

If you aren’t familiar, Mips is a hairnet (for lack of a better term) attached to the inside of the helmet. The hairnet moves upon impact lessening the rotational forces your head experiences when crashing. The early versions of Mips was a hard plastic hairnet that often interfered with the helmet’s vents and made for a hot helmet.

Mips has evolved into some new designs like the Air Node that does not interfere with the helmet’s vents, and as a result you hardly know that it’s there. In fact, it appears to be no more intrusive than typical thin padding in a comparable helmet.

The Aero Helmet for You?

The Gamechanger 2.0 is made in Italy and expected to hit the US Market sometime this month or later. You can find them on ABUS’ Amazon store for $329.99 with Mips installed. You can also find them branded by Canyon for $231.95 without Mips installed. However, Canyon is currently out of stock of the white.

The United States is not yet included on their list of dealers, but that shouldn’t stop you from asking your local bike shops if they will be carrying ABUS in the future. For the third time, I recommend trying one on before buying. Don’t forget to bring your winter hat and sunglasses when you do.

And one last note, the ABUS Gamechanger 2.0 is ponytail compatible. The rear cage is high enough to fit a ponytail underneath it, but the gap between the adjustment knob and the helmet is big enough for a ponytail to fit through.

The post Reviewed: ABUS Gamechanger 2.0 Helmet first appeared on Slowtwitch News.

Spring has officially started, and there’s a fresh layer of snow on the ground in Western New York. Which means we are still inside riding our trainers for the most part. However, with each passing year, indoor riding has become less and less of a seasonal, inclement weather alternative to riding outside. Even when the weather is nice, I find myself on the trainer for rides that are an hour or less. Some days, it’s simply more convenient to get a short ride completed inside.

As a result, I don’t think there is ever a bad time to consider upgrading your indoor riding setup. In the Zwift beta days, I started with a laptop on my kids’ old highchair and a Lemond Revolution dumb trainer. Each year since then, I’ve added some new piece of equipment to make the indoor riding experience more tolerable. Fast forward to today, and my setup now includes some accessories from Wahoo that you may want to consider.

Current Setups

My pain cave shares space with my teenage boys’ gaming and video streaming hang out spot in the basement. As a result, I’ve been able to justify some equipment upgrades that improve both their gaming experiences and mine on Zwift. For example, we recently upgraded to a more powerful gaming PC and 4K televisions, both of which were significantly marked down as open box returns after the Super Bowl. Zwift in 4K is cool, and so are Fortnite, Elden Ring, and (as of today) Rise of the Ronin.

I have two main setups that I’ll discuss while highlighting the Wahoo accessories. My main setup is a Gen 5 Wahoo Kickr mounted on an InsideRide motion rig. I prefer this setup for longer rides because of the motion that the rig affords making for a more comfortable experience in the saddle. The Gen 5 Kickr is connected to my router with the Kickr Direct Connect that I’ll discus below.

My secondary setup is a Wahoo Kickr Core Zwift One with a Kickr Climb. I prefer this setup for rides with climbs and for gaining more experience with virtual shifting in Zwift. The Kickr Climb approximates the tilt angle of the climbs in Zwift, which is closer to what the actual experience is pedaling on those gradients. The Kickr Core has the Zwift One freehub body installed, and I’m using the Zwift Play controllers to shift the virtual gears.

A third setup I will only briefly mention is the InsideRide E-Motion Smart Rollers that I use occasionally in the winter months when I’m burned out on the other two setups. They are the best rollers I’ve ever used, but I don’t use them as frequently likely because they require a bit more concentration and diligence than the other two setups.

Wahoo Direct Connect

No Drops. That’s the single and best thing I can say about this accessory. The Kickr Direct Connect hard wires your trainer to your computer or router with an ethernet cord, resulting in a steady and reliable connection with programs like Zwift.

There are many reasons why you may be experiencing dropped connections in Wahoo X, Zwift, or other indoor riding programs. Mike Hanney of Zwiftalizer has a video detailing 18 different issues that may be the cause of dropped Bluetooth or ANT connections. Chief among these potential issues is that your space may be overcrowded with competing devices broadcasting over Bluetooth and ANT. This certainly describes my basement with the many controllers and wireless headphones we have competing with one another.

The quickest way for me to cut through all this noise for a reliable connection was to use the Wahoo Direct Connect for my Gen 5 Kickr. Unfortunately, the Direct Connect is not compatible with the Kickr Core. However, I have found using the Zwift companion app as a connection bridge has decreased the number of dropped connections. I can’t remember the last time a data drop effected my ride or race on Zwift.

The Kickr Direct Connect has an MSRP of $99.99 and may be worth it to save you in-game frustrations. Combined with Kickr Race Mode, you will have the fastest and most reliable connection for racing on Zwift.

Wahoo Headwind Fan

This Headwind Fan works as a regular fan and a smart fan. The smart aspect of the fan is that it can be paired with your trainer speed or your heart rate. Because speed doesn’t have a direct relationship with effort, I prefer to have the fan paired with my heart rate for cooling purposes. Although, if you prefer the fan to stop as soon as you are done with your ride, then you may want to pair it with your speed.

I like having the steady stream of variable air from the front, but I find it’s not enough for cooling. The air stream is easily obstructed by the Climb or if you have a wide towel on the handlebars. I try to aim my fans at my torso. Prior to receiving the Headwind Fan for review, I was using a remote-controlled Vornado fan. I now use both, which has prolonged my indoor riding and helped to prevent fatigue related to overheating.

You’ll have to decide if the smart features of the Wahoo Headwind Fan is worth $299.99 MSRP. If not, then you may want to consider a remote-control fan like the Vornado for the sale price of $99.99 on Amazon.

Wahoo Kickr Climb

I don’t use the Kickr Climb as much as I thought I would or maybe as much as I probably should. I tend to avoid the hilly routes and events on Zwift. However, I used it on the Zwift Alpe today, and I do think it makes for a different riding experience than without it. There’s something to riding at the approximate angle you would if climbing those gradients. When tilted upwards you are applying pressure differently in the pedals, and maybe that’s a significant adaptation to riding similar climbs outside.

More than anything for me, the Kickr Climb presents some variety to indoor riding, which I sorely need if I’m doing countless days of indoor riding without getting outside. However, at $699.99 MSRP, you’ll have to decide if the novelty or climbing adaptation tool is worth the investment.

Wahoo Desk Stand

The Wahoo Desk is the accessory I didn’t think I wanted, but I am sure glad I have. Before I was using a makeshift platform that I mounted on a microphone stand to hold my wireless keyboard, phone, and remote controls. Now the desk neatly holds all those items. I attached a power strip to one of the table legs and did my best to tidy up all the cables, including the charge cord for the Zwift Play Controllers.

The price of $299.99 MSRP may not be what everyone is comfortable with when it comes to a desk for indoor riding. There are certainly comparable DIY and cheaper alternatives if you look around. I don’t like that the three-wheel design of the desk makes it pivot on the center wheel. However, the desk is designed to be compatible with the Headwind Fan, so that make things easier in tight spaces.

Wahoo Floor Mat

Well, there’s not much to say about a mat. The Wahoo Floor Mat looks cool with the Wahoo and Kickr logos. The foam also has good memory, meaning that when you step on it with your cleats or leave your trainer on it for a long time the impressions left go away over time. The same isn’t true for my other, cheaper foam floor tiles. The MRSP is $79.99, which may make this more of an accent accessory rather than one that will significantly improve your indoor riding experience. Then again, if your goal is to accumulate all things Wahoo, then you may want the Wahoo Mat to complete the set.

Maybe Not All At Once

Collectively, these accessories add up quick. However, you may want to consider upgrading your indoor setup gradually across the indoor riding seasons or years. Riding indoors just isn’t the same as the joy of riding outdoors, no matter how many toys and tools we come up with to make indoor riding more tolerable. However, these toys and tools help keep nuancing the indoor riding experience and maybe even keeping us on the bike a bit longer than without them.

The post Wahoo Pain Cave Upgrades first appeared on Slowtwitch News.

Shimano GRX is now available in 12-speed mechanical with a few different drivetrain options. Here, I provide my thought process when building a TIME ADHX 45 for gravel racing this season. Later this year, I will provide some in-depth reviews on different aspects of this bike in the context of gravel racing. For now, I make a case for why you should consider mechanical GRX 12-speed, rather than wait for the inevitable Di2 follow-up. I also pick up where Dan left off with his argument for cockpit adjustability and against complete internal routing of hoses and cables.

Purpose

This gravel build is for racing. Plain and simple, I wanted to build a go-fast gravel bike that I could race this season. In the past, I’ve raced gravel on my cyclocross bikes with 35mm gravel tires. I’ve been curious to race gravel on 40+ mm tires, and I have three races planned for April & May:

4/20 Barry Roubaix, Michigan, 62 miles, 4,000 feet of climbing
4/28 Paris to Ancaster, Ontario 43 miles, 1500 feet of climbing
5/4 Black Fork Gravel Grinder, Ohio 54 miles, 5,000 feet of climbing

Of the three, Black Fork is closer to what most may consider in the “spirit of gravel” with ~1,000 feet of climbing for every 10 miles. Barry is one of the oldest “gravel” races in the country (first edition was in 2009) and features more long rollers than steep climbs. P2A is a point-to-point mix of asphalt, bike path, single track, and Amish farm roads (with the occasional mud bog thrown in for fun). I’ve done P2A a couple times before; the course is always a little bit different depending on permissions from property owners. However, this will be my first time racing Barry and Black Fork.

Frameset

My friend, teammate, and long-time bike fitter, Jim Baldesare, told me at a recent fitting session that the current TIME geometry is ideal for my fit. At 6’3” with a short torso, I need a ton of stack. This means my first consideration for any bike is head tube length. I also need a fairly relaxed seat tube angle, so I don’t have to slam my saddle all the way back. The TIME frames are around 73 degrees for seat tube angle, which is ideal for my fit. Before rediscovering TIME, the frames I found to fit these specs are the TREK Boone and Crockett. I own two Boones for cyclocross and have been using my Crockett for daily training and gravel racing. Since rediscovering TIME and their support of our master’s team, I have been racing crits and road races on an ADH01. It’s by far my favorite race bike of all-time. I was worried about it being too nice to race, but it took all the abuse I dished out, including the endless concrete expansion joints of Milwaukee at ToAD.

When the TIME ADHX came out, I wasn’t sold on the frame having a max tire clearance of 38mm. Everyone I was talking to in the gravel racing scene was telling me that I needed to go with bigger tires, so I wanted to give that a shot. Therefore, I was excited when TIME released the ADHX 45 with max tire clearance of 45mm. In a recent podcast, TIME owner Tony Karklins discusses how and why the ADHX was developed and has since been rebranded as Allroad, as well as why TIME answered the call for bigger tires with the ADHX 45. It’s worth a listen; Tony’s story in the industry put together a lot of pieces for me over the last 20+ years. Make no mistake, the TIME bikes are race bikes. You would want a different frame if your needs require carrying lots of gear for adventures, for example.

However, I did hesitate (again) on whether or not the ADHX 45 was too nice to race gravel. These TIME bikes are works of art, and the paintwork is stunning. I decided to go for it, recalling the abuse my ADH01 has taken in crit racing. Although, I did decide to get the frame ceramic coated because rock strikes are inevitable. It was a choice between ceramic coating the whole frame or 3M protection film on the underside of the downtube. I’ve done the 3M tape protection on past frames and wanted to give the ceramic coating a shot. So, we’ll see.

The Case for Mechanical

After years and years of racing on SRAM, I’ve gradually converted my bike stable over to Shimano. SRAM is nice and super easy to install; I regularly do SRAM builds for friends and teammates. Yet, I prefer Shimano, and I prefer mechanical. I’ve had a few Di2 bikes in the recent past, and I was turned off by the hassle of battery charging and the high expense of spares. Admittedly, I’m a bit of a retro grouch when it comes to electronic shifting having been shaped by the mindset that your race bike should be spec’d with readily available and preferably inexpensive parts.

Also, I don’t like to race on anything I can’t fix on the side of the road. For me, electronic shifting adds unnecessary complexity with very little gain compared to mechanical. I’ll concede that it’s much easier to build and maintain a bike with electronic shifting, but I can’t help but to think how I might pay for that convenience when I’m stranded on the side of the road because something I can’t fix went wrong with the electric shifting. On the Di2 side, that fragile wire to the rear derailleur makes me nervous. Maybe less so in the context of gravel, but more so in the context of criterium racing. I’ll also concede that the shifting is crisper with less effort than mechanical, but Shimano mechanical is very, very close if installed properly.

Drivetrain Choice

Shimano GRX 12-speed mechanical is offered with three major drivetrain choices. Shimano has branded these three choices with not-so-helpful labels: 1). UNDROPPABLE, 2.) UNBEATABLE, and 3.) UNSTOPABLE. I’d argue that two of those choices are appropriate for the type of gravel racing I have in mind, and the third choice is more for an adventure set-up.

UNSTOPABLE, as in no climb is too steep? What I consider to be the third choice for adventure gravel riding, this option is a 1×12 drivetrain with a 40 or 42 front chainring and a massive 10-51 cassette. That’s close to mountain bike gearing, which may be required if you are hauling camping gear and/or climbing steep gradients for long periods of time. This setup has a specific derailleur to accommodate the 51T max cassette (RD-RX822-SGS). Note that 10T cassettes require the Microspline freehub body.

UNBEATABLE, as in a 1x is all I need to win? I consider this drivetrain option to be geared for one-day riding and racing. This is the same as the UNSTOPABLE option with a 40 or 42 front chainring, but the cassette is 10-45 and the derailleur is different (RD-RX822-GS). Most people can make use of a 1:1 bailout gear or greater in the context of riding and racing on gravel courses that fit the 1:100 ratio (miles:climbing feet). I do love the simplicity of 1x; my Boones and Crockett are setup with 1x Wolftooth/Ultegra RX 11-speed groups. However, I have found when racing gravel that I’m often wanting the “gear between” the cogs of the cassette on a 1x setup. This is usually when I’m alone and slogging it out on a climb.

UNDROPPABLE, as in it is 2x but don’t worry about dropped chains? This is the best option for me, because it gives me the most choices of gear ratios, as I build fitness and attempt to get back into race shape. The crankset comes in a 48/31 and cassette options include 11-34 or 11-36 for use with the RD-RX820 rear derailleur. Note that these cassettes have a small cog of 11 and require the Hyperglide L2 freehub body. I opted for the 11-34 cassette with the reasoning that would provide enough gear beyond a 1:1 to get me through the races I have planned.

If you are piecing this group together yourself, make note of the which freehub body and rear derailleur your cassette of choice calls for. I found this the most confusing part of learning about the new 12-speed GRX. There are three rear derailleurs and two freehub bodies, so there is bound to be some mistakes made when ordering if people aren’t careful.

Cockpit Choices

I’m not a big flare kind of guy. I don’t like crazy wide drops, and I don’t like my hoods angled in. Yes, that’s part retro grouchy, but it’s also what is comfortable to me over the long haul. Of all the gnarly gravel descents I’ve done in the Appalachian foothills and mountains, I’ve never felt a need for really wide drops for stability. This preference is also a product of being accustomed to sliding around and bike driving on a cross bike with 42mm bars that only flare to 44mm in the drops. I didn’t want any more than 10 degrees of flare, so for the Shimano PRO line that meant the LT Gravel Alloy bar. All the other alloy and carbon bar choices from PRO featured even more flare. However, I did bump the bar size out to 44mm at the hoods, which with 10 degrees of flare bumps the drops out to 48mm (center-to-center). That’s seems plenty wide for my riding style.

I also chose the LT Gravel Alloy bar because I had no plans to route the hoses and cables through the bar or the stem. If it’s a new bike, I don’t like to route the hoses and cables in such a way that I cannot easily swap out the bar or the stem. I may hate this bar and want a different one, and I may get fit on this bike by Jim and he will recommend a different stem length. In line with Dan’s reasoning, I see no upside to internally routing hoses and cables.

I did have the option of internal routing available. TIME specs the carbon FSA K-Wing AGX handlebar and the NS ACR Stem for the ADHX 45. This combination is really nice and looks great when everything is hidden, much more so than the Deda options TIME offers. However, I cannot lean into a guess on liking the feel of the handlebar and the appropriateness of the stem length and height for my fit while going through the laborious process of routing hoses through the handlebar, stem, stem spacers, and head tube.

And, let’s face it. Internally routing both hydraulic hoses AND both shifter cables would be a major pain in the butt. Maybe with just the rear cable housing on the 1x groups, but with the 2x it wouldn’t be fun. If I was doing all this internal routing for a customer at a shop, I would be charging extra.

Even with routing the hoses and cables externally, it was still a bit of a chore to size the cable housing at the appropriate length. The hoses are easier because they can be cut after everything else has been installed. I think the result of external routing on the ADHX 45 is tidy and plenty “aero.”

Cable Routing

TIME doesn’t make running mechanical 2x on the ADHX 45 very easy. They combine housing stops with their cable guide underneath the bottom bracket. That seems straightforward, but the housing stops aren’t deep enough to hold the ferrules in place. Therefore, I had to install the derailleurs before the bottom bracket so that I could put tension on the cables and hold the ferrules in place.

On my cyclocross bikes, I’ve adopted the habit of running Jagwire sealed cables. I find that they prolong the life of the shifter cables and the chore of removing the bottom bracket to replace them. In some cases, I have drilled out the stops and run full housing to the derailleurs. The new Boone now features this design. This would have been possible on the ADHX 45 in theory. I could bypass the cable guide below the bottom bracket and run housing to the rear derailleur. The new Shimano front derailleurs include a cable housing stop, so that’s also possible with 2x. However, I did not want to drill out the front derailleur cable hole to accommodate 4 or 5mm cable housing on a brand new TIME frame. So, I went by the book and routed the sealed cable system through the cable guide under the bottom bracket.

The Rest of the Build

Everything else went together without a hitch.

The 40mm Challenge Getaway tires are a nice match to the carbon RX880 wheels with hooked rims that have a 25mm internal width. I’m not convinced hookless is a good roadside repair option for 40mm tires at 30-40 psi. I did use an air compressor to seat the tires initially. But, they appear that they will seat themselves even with a tube and a hand pump (and maybe a squirt of water for encouragement) on the side of the road. I will test that out before race day.

The Stealth saddle with carbon rails is an open question. I tend to find a saddle that works for me and put it on all of my bikes. For going on 10 years, that has primarily meant Fizik Ariones on my road bikes and Selle Italia X1s on my cyclocross and gravel bikes. I’ll give the Stealth a shot in training, but the carbon rails make me nervous as a heavier rider.

The new 12-speed GRX groups feature some changes to the hydraulic brake calipers that are worth noting. The bleed nipple and screw are separate and recessed. They both have dust covers and are nicely tucked away. The previous bleed nipple/screw on GRX 11-speed and other Shimano groups was kind of vulnerable and had a dust cover that was easy to lose. This new design is much better and cleaner. The new calipers also feature 10% more width between the pads and the rotor. I didn’t notice this much, but I will say caliper alignment was indeed “first try” (not in the way LEGO Batman says it).

Another thing that I noticed that I think is new is the hydraulic hoses sealed at the nipple and full of mineral oil. Also the olive is already installed inside the flange flare nut on the shifter. I guess the intent here is to perforate the hose and install immediately in the shifter lever, maybe without the need to bleed? I had to shorten the hoses and press in new connecter inserts, so I went ahead and bled both brakes anyway. Two items that make this process easy are the Park Tool Bleed Kit for Mineral Oil and the Shimano Disc Brake Hose Cut & Set Tool. Life is definitely easier since I added these to my bike shop at home.

More Soon

I’ll follow up with a performance review of this bike. In particular, I’ll be focusing on the GRX 12-speed 2x mechanical group and the Challenge Getaway Tires. I’ll let you know how the bike performed in those three races. I think I’m really going to like the handmade suppleness of the Challenge Getaway Tires on the mixed terrain of P2A, but we’ll see how they fare on the “purer” gravel courses at Barry and Black Fork.

Build Specs

Frameset: TIME ADHX 45 XL Gloss Siva
Bar: PRO LT Gravel Alloy 44mm
Bar Tape: PRO Gravel Comfort
Stem: PRO Discover 110mm
Seatpost: PRO Discover Carbon
Saddle: PRO Stealth Carbon
Shifter Levers: ST-RX820-R/L
Cables/Housing: Jagwire Elite Sealed
Disc Brake Calipers: BR-RX820
Brake Rotors: RT-CL800 160mm
Front Derailleur: FD-RX820
Crankset: FC-RX820-2 48/31 175mm
Bottom Bracket: Kogel Ceramic 386EVO-24
Rear Derailleur: RD-RX820
Cassette: CS-R8101-12 11-34
Chain: CN-M8100
Wheelset: WH-RX880
Tires: Challenge Getaway 40mm
Sealant: Challenge
Pedals: XTR PD-M9100

Weight: 19 lbs. 15 oz.

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